Forget London Bridge

March 5th, 2010

“The speed at which China is developing its road transport infrastructure is truly admirable. China currently has 3.5 million km (2.2 million miles) of road. More than half of that is low grade, according to Reuters. China had only 53,000 km of expressways in 2007. The country is intent on building 80,000 additional kilometers of expressway over the next ten years, surpassing the length of the continental United States interstate highway network. Of course, the development of the logistics infrastructure will have monumental affects on the ease and declining cost of shipping goods throughout the country, and to neighboring countries.

“However, China’s bridges seem to be falling down – or falling apart – almost as quickly as they put them up. The Henan Road bridge, a busy throughway that spans the Suzhou Creek in Shanghai, in mid-2009 developed cracks as long as four meters in length, with chunks falling off the structure shortly after renovaton. Workers from the company that built the bridge used garbage – including plastic foam and leather bags – mixed with glue to fill the yawning cracks. The workers repairing the newly-built 120-meter Hanzhongmen Bridge in Nanjing were less creative than the Suzhou Creek crew during December 2009, and simply poured superglue into cracks that were large enough to fit one’s hand through.

Read more of the article in my latest column on logistics and supply chain management, in the March/April issue of CHaINA Magazine …

Bubblicious

February 26th, 2010

The Financial Times recently had an excellent analysis entitled, “No One Home,” which opened with the exploration of a newly constructed, completely empty town outside Kunming, in Yunnan Province. Kunming, the capital of the province, has become crowded as the economic center of southwest China (while Chongqing and Chengdu battle for pre-eminence of central China). The town was built with local government funds ostensibly for the people from the countryside encouraged to move to cities. The example sets the stage for the argument as to whether China’s property market is a bubble or not.

I have no doubt China’s property market is bubbly. However, I do believe the market can and will be moderated to a point that property prices will level out over the near term. Not collapse. The problem, though, will be longer term. With more than US$1.7 trillion having gone out to local governments in 2009 – one-third of GDP – and very little transparency and accountability as to how the funds are being spent, China will almost certainly have to revivify the same toxic-loans corporations it had used to relieve its banks of the weight of non-performing loans. As one commentator cites, a 30 per cent default rate would in effect wipe out the paid-in capital of top banks such as China Construction Bank and Bank of China. I would not be at all surprised if the default rate is twice that amount, given the opaqueness of the loan process, the questionable rationale behind the Urban Development Investment Corporations the local governments set up to receive the bank loans, and the sheer volume of mid- to high-end real estate actually under construction or recently finished – property no one just off the farm can possibly afford.

Having taken this shotgun approach to revving up the economy as the world plunged into the global economic downturn, China has used up its ammunition. It’s leadership needs to audit the loan placements and ensure the projects developed with the money are actually being used for productive infrastructure projects – which, all agree, China’s interior in particular is still in dire need of. If manufacturing and service sector productivity do not actually increase in line with the largest fiscal stimulus the world has ever seen (during peacetime), then China will almost certainly head into a double dip recession.

And the world will hold its breath to see what else the Chinese leadership has in its bag of tricks.

Further reading: China at risk of home grown financial crisis; China hits back at Fitch, saying banks sound

Previous posts:

The Enron Effect and China

A Look Under the Hood at China’s Economic Engine

The Bubble Cometh

If it Looks Like a Bubble and It Smells Like a Bubble…

China is a Scam

There’s No Place Like Home: Worker Shortages

February 23rd, 2010

Several stories have appeared in international papers about the dearth of workers to fill Chinese factories. Guangdong, in particular, is being hit hard, with as few as one worker available for every two jobs; contrast that with four workers competing for every three jobs in the heady days of 2007, just months before the American buyer finally became exhausted buying stuff.

Workers typically came from the poorer parts of China, where job opportunities were scarce. Also, with the collapse in the prices of produce, farming was no longer the cash cow it used to be in the 1980s. Now, a generation later, and workers are better educated and have higher expectations for what employers should offer in terms of salary and benefits. Also, the majority of fiscal stimulus of 2009 went to the interior of China, to build much needed roads, highways, bridges and cities. Jobs are plentiful in the interior in a way they never have been in China’s long history.

The traditional Hong Kong and Taiwan model – prevalent throughout south and central China – of treating Mainland workers as modern-day sharecroppers is coming to end. So too, using cheap labor as an excuse to keep from modernizing equipment and updating manufacturing processes. Of course, this will take capital, which the Overseas Chinese model is anathema too. Overseas Chinese investors and Mainland Chinese investors who were able to build reserves are moving their factories either further inland along transportation routes with direct links to ports, or closing down completely and moving to the likes of Vietnam. The effect will be to accelerate China’s climb up the industrial value chain.

Western companies will experience some salary pressure; however, as Western companies typically pay better than Asian companies, and offer more hospitable surroundings in which to live, Western investors will see few changes from the normalization of the migrant “bulge” of workers that had made Guangdong the Workshop of the World.

Further reading: BBC, FT, NYT

Previous posts:

Productivity Key: Sexually Repressed Workers

Managing the Return to Normalcy

Don’t Mess with Spring Festival

Find the Cheap Labor

The Trends Shaping China Business, Economics and Society

Looking for 8

August 5th, 2009

The powers that be have made it plain they will spend whatever it takes to reach the magic 8% annual GDP growth rate in 2009. But how does China actually measure its GDP, and why should the world care?

The Financial Times raises the question, and a lucid and well-written article by John Makin at the American Enterprise Institute provides some answers. China’s definition of GDP growth and America’s definition are starkly different, which has thrown into question the efficacy of China’s approach to stimulating its economy and measuring the impact of the of its US$560 billion package. America measures its growth (or decrease) in wealth (Gross Domestic Product) by guaging expenditure growth: defined as the sum of consumption, investment, government spending, and net exports. China does just the opposite: the Chinese Central government – still stuck in the soviet-style mindset of production-as-reality at all costs – measures production activity without taking into account inventory stocks or actual expenditures. The form of measurement is one of the reasons for China’s bloated State-owned enterprises and for some of the economic disasters in its very recent history.

So, if a sneaker company in Guangdong produces a hundred pairs of sneakers with an attached value of RMB 6,700 (about US$1,000 in 2009 currency), then the Chinese government tracks the value of the shipment as part of its GDP statistics; whereas the United States government measures the expenditure on the shoes plus the value of any remaining inventory. For China, this way of measuring growth in its economy reflects some level of reality so long as buyers are buying all that is produced. However, as was the case in the economic downturn of 2008-9, buyers in other countries dried up. So, the Chinese government encouraged export-driven factories to begin selling to Chinese consumers inside the country. However, the spending power as well as the appetite of Chinese consumers, though growing between 10% and 15% per annum, was far from the easy-spending Americans and the more frugal Europeans.

Makin writes in his article, “China: Bogus Boom”:

There are anecdotal reports of Chinese households buying washing machines that were aggressively shipped and counted as retail sales during the first half of the year. However, many of the households that purchased washing machines, or were virtually given such machines, have found them unusable because their homes lack either the running water or electricity (or both) necessary to make use of a modern appliance. Such problems arise when ambitious planners count shipments as retail sales while end-use demand may be absent. In such cases, the “sales” are made to happen by virtually giving away the products that have already been produced and counted as GDP growth.

So, to give the perception that China’s economy was actually on its way to meeting its 8% growth rate, it told the four largest banks in the country – all of which are State-owned – to open up lending specifically to State-owned Enterprises and to local governments for infrastructure projects. It didn’t matter whether the companies or governments produced anything with the money, or even how they spent it if they did, since the release of funds in and of itself would register as production in the Chinese economic view. In other words, the only thing that mattered was that the transaction itself would be registered as growth in GDP and – the powers that be hoped – encourage Chinese consumers to spend because the economy was outperforming other economies in the world.

The flood of money has already resulted in dubious projects appearing on the schedules of local governments. The Washington Post wrote:

A $3 billion metro rail system linking the southern manufacturing cities of Guangzhou, Dongguan and Shenzhen, for instance, has been criticized as a waste of money because there are already four railway lines linking the cities and the trains often run empty. Ditto a $4.5 billion highway connecting the Sichuan province cities of Chengdu, Zigong and Luzhou, because there are already highways from Chengdu to Zigong and from Zigong to Luzhou.

A bridge running from just outside Shanghai to a textile manufacturing center on the other side of a bay was also resurrected to create construction jobs. For years, its designers had been unable to get the $2 billion they needed to build it because its route would mostly duplicate that of another massive bridge that was already under construction.

That changed in November when at least six of the biggest employers at the other end of the bridge, in Shaoxing, went out of business. Even though there is less need because of the closures, blueprints for the second bridge were dusted off and, almost overnight, workers broke ground. The project is expected to employ about 250,000 people and indirectly provide jobs for 300,000 more.

Which, of course, is the most important goal of any economic initiative in China: to provide opportunities for its citizens to be able to make at least a modicum of living, if not actually be able to become wealthy one day.

Monies the State-owned enterprises and local governments have not yet slated for projects are flowing into the real estate and stock market bubbles the government had worked to deflate as late as last summer (2008). As Andy Xie, an independent economist, wrote for Caijing Magazine recently:

“The tough economy and easy credit conditions encouraged many companies to try profiting from asset appreciation. They borrowed money and put it into the stock market. And since China’s stock market has risen 70 percent since last November, many businesses feel vindicated for focusing on the asset market. This speculation spread to Hong Kong. Mainland money may have been behind a recent rise in the Hang Seng Index to 19,000 from 15,000, as well as Hong Kong luxury property sales. One way or another, it seems the money source was China’s lending binge.

Borrowing money for asset market speculation is not restricted to private companies. State-owned enterprises (SOEs) appear to be lending money to private companies at high interest rates, i.e. loan sharking, using money borrowed at low rates from state-owned banks. Of course, we can’t estimate the magnitude of such SOE lending. But it has replaced high interest rate financing in the gray economy.”

Even with the prospect of the asset bubbles bursting, I believe China will continue to bolster liberal lending policies to at least give the appearance to the rest of the world that China is actually creating wealth in its economy. What it is actually doing, though, is just pushing money around. The stock market will for the forseeable future remain the purview of the SOEs, shielded by inadequate transparency and restructuring of listings. Further, China is long way off from providing investors with additional, internationalized outlets for investment beyond buying domestic property. And then, the long-awaited return of the American buyer as saviour of China’s export sector will be a chimera, never to return in its original form and enthusiasm. The government will find tamping down the bubbles will be even more difficult to achieve than before. Inflation will have to be tamed by fiat, just as had been the case with electricity and oil in early 2008. However, the Yuan just might come down to a more sensible valuation, because China’s fundamentals will seem so out of whack with the economic statistics it presents the world.

Oh, that Crazy 8.

Work is Dead! Long Live Work!

July 30th, 2009

cubepeopleSeveral Westerners I’ve talked with here in China seem to be sketching a trend in the way people perceive and act on work. Instead of just working at a “job” or taking another “job” or looking to get promoted in their “job” they are either moving from a part-time “job” or no “job” at all to a Portfolio of Work. The portfolio contains several activities that are projects and/or actual businesses. For instance, one American I know is leading the start-up of a new factory that will produce goods for the American market. He has American partners – and Chinese money. But he has still formed another contract manufacturing business here in China with other Western friends.

One of those Western friends has gone from being GM of a factory in Suzhou to becoming an on-call advisor to HQ, a consultant to the staff at the factory, and a troublshooter for the supply chain. In addition, he hopes to go on to do something a bit more creative with his life.

Meanwhile, a Danish friend who ran a sales and service operation in China until last week is now a “global troubleshooter” for other operations in the world. He is also in talks to set up an Extreme Tours business with a friend in Shanghai that takes people to exotic lands and gives them exotic adventures, while at the same time planning a sports equipment import company that supplies the Danish market.

The motivation for all these guys and others with whom I’ve chatted seems to be a profound dissatisfaction with the corporate world. They see the bosses of their and other companies as having lost a great deal of credibility of late: greed, arbitrary decision-making, cronyism and a lack of appreciation for what these guys have contributed to the company as managers that have built company operations in China overshadow any heart-felt feelings they once may have had for their former employers. The newly independent have chosen to diversify their personal economic models and move toward work they personally find more satisfying. It could all be summed up with a general disgust for the present-day institution of “the job”. Certainly, the global economic downturn has magnified the causes of these fellows’ discontent, exacerbating the impact of lousy and sometimes self-interested decisions their bosses have made. Another impact of the Downturn is to make these pretty bright go-getters feel less secure about the traditional role of “the job” in their lives. Though corporations demand one’s living-breathing existence in exchange for a stable income, these young men – mostly in their early thirties – seem to feel that there is no covent between the organization and the individual beyond what the individuals at the top decide. Of course, the latest information and communications technologies facilitated their new approach to work, making it easier to stay linked with coworkers no matter where in the world they are working.

Ironically, here in China, international influences have been attempting to focus bright young Chinese to commit their lives to the Organization. Standard Chinese operating procedure is to pick and choose work and jobs as though sitting at a Chinese banquet table with a pair of chopsticks picking and choosing what morsel to pluck from what dish.

Perhaps in time, once more Chinese have upgraded their skills and better defined their abilities and the contributions they can make in a modern marketplace they too will be managing Portfolios of Work – not fully entrepreneur, but not a grunt, either.

Thee Doth Protest Too Much

July 27th, 2009

the-ides-of-marchThousands protesting are big numbers, even by China’s reckoning. Especially if the protests occur in two separate regions in as many days, are violent, and have essentially the same reason: the rich getting richer in China by unashamedly gaming the system.

The Financial Times reports:

“The privatisation of a state steel group has been scrapped after an executive was beaten to death by workers angry at the threat to their jobs from a takeover of their company…The violent riot in north-east China late last week involved up to 30,000 workers, a reminder of the ongoing sensitivity about lay-offs from state companies in industries targeted for consolidation.”

Certainly, it doesn’t help when people become self- or otherwise-anointed emperors and treat co-workers like crap. I can certainly see from whence their anger stems:

The interim general manager sent by Jianlong to run Tonghua, Chen Guojun, had infuriated the workers with his high-handed attitude, according to comments posted on internet bulletin boards in China.

He had reportedly said that he would re-establish Tonghua “under the name of Chen” and lay off almost all the employees.

“With Tonghua Steel’s retired workers each receiving only Rmb200 ($29) a month for living expenses, Chen Guojun was paid an annual salary of Rmb3m,” the rights group reported.”

AP reported yesterday that just a couple hours drive from Suzhou, in Zhejiang province, 3,000 townsfolk went berserk at the local authority’s purportedly giving them the shaft in a land-for-spit deal the residents found wholly unfair:

More than 3,000 villagers in eastern China blocked a highway and clashed with police while protesting alleged official corruption in a land compensation deal…Ten residents of Shipu town, in Zhejiang province, were injured in the clash with more than 300 riot police Saturday…Another resident said thousands of people had been staging a sit-in on the land for nearly a week.

Without credible avenues for complaint and decision, local governments will continue to place citizens in positions in which residents must explode en masse to gain any kind of fair hearing at a supra-local level.

“The employee, who refused to give his name, said the villagers believed the land was worth three times the price the local government had set — 20,000 yuan (US$2,900) per mu. A mu is a Chinese measure of land equal to about 0.15 acres (0.06 hectares).

“The villagers want the local authorities to address the corruption and the central government to intervene in this case, but some local officials have been preventing this information from getting to the relevant authorities…”

So what set off this latest round of high-volume, high-action drama that has nothing to do with ethnic differences? In a word: stimulus package (ok, that’s two words). China’s stimulus package of some US$560 billion kicked off at the beginning of the year with the Central government ordering the banks to open the offers. Hundreds of millions of dollars have already been loaned out, re-inflating the stock market and property bubbles the government had worked to flatten two years ago. Now, local governments, State-owned enterprises and large privately-owned corporations with “special relationships” with bank lenders (read guanxi) are redistributing wealth in preferential ways. Indeed, the FT writes about the steel protests in the northeast:

The privately held Jianlong Group, one of China’s largest private steel companies, had first proposed taking over Tonghua in 2005, backed out of the deal when the economy slowed last year, but re-entered negotiations recently when industrial demand picked up.

Propelled by the government’s stimulus package, China produced steel at an annualised rate of 545m tonnes in June, a record level of output.”

AP writes of the Zhejiang protests that the land was recently sold to be developed into a science and technology park. In Shipu, Ningbo district. In the middle of nowheresville? Local administrators would be able to access bank loans for infrastructure development as well as the national level subsidies for new-and-high-tech projects. Clever.

Of course, the communications and information infrastructure the national government is putting in place will only enable citizens to band together more easily when it comes to voicing grievances. And as long as the powers-that-be continue to find it difficult to kick their millennia-old bad habits, encouraged by the prospect of untold wealth, more of these industrial actions will occur, with greater frequency and with groups in numbers that may one day mark the Ides of March on the Chinese calendar.

Migrant Workers: Separate and Unequal

Dry Mouth in the Southwest

February 23rd, 2010

One of the nicer aspects of the turn to Spring in the Yangtze River Delta is that I won’t have to be running the electricity bill further up to keep warm. But at least I have electricity. Yunnan, and much of southwest China, has been suffering a drought that is drying its reservoirs. This is unfortunate as the southwest relies on the dams at the reservoirs to generate electricity. Unfortunately, the region may see electricity supply fall by as much as 20% during the first five months of the year.

As the WSJ points out, melting glaciers and drying riverbeds will affect China’s overall attempt to rely more on hydropower than on coal-generated electricity. As water becomes more dear, companies in the southwest and northwest of China can expect higher electricity bills – or grayer skies.

Previous posts:

Addicted to Cheap Water

The Real Feel

Precious Little to Go Round

Productivity Key: Sexually Repressed Workers

February 5th, 2010

Recent articles have helped me better understand how Chinese migrant workers can work twelve to fourteen hour shifts, seven days a week at the four construction sites within 15 minute’s walk of where I live: they’re sexually repressed, according to Zhang Feng, director of Guangdong provincial commission of population and family planning. Guangdong recently announced through a survey it had performed on the sexual habits and reproductive health of migrant workers that 36 percent hadn’t had sex in a very long time. Meanwhile, another 30% hire prostitutes, while yet another third said they have many sexual partners.

China’s residence permit laws make it near impossible for a migrant worker’s entire family to follow him or her to a new city. City administrations do not provide social services such as healthcare and education to the out-of-towners. Migrant workers are also amongst the first to be forced out of cities during high-visibility events like the Beijing Olympics and the PRC’s birthday.

Though the national government is considering a liberalization of the residence permit laws, and some cities, like Shanghai, have recently made it easier for migrants to change their residence permit, most men and women who leave their hometowns for work in larger cities will still find the going tough without their families. Perhaps the 100 million condoms the Guangdong government will dispense to workers will help relieve a bit of their anxiety.

Further reading: Reuters, China Daily

China Redefines Luxury Branding

January 27th, 2010

What do “Canto Motto”, “OChirly” or “Masfor.SU”, and BRJ (short for “The Best Raiment of Jauntiness”) all have in common? I am increasingly seeing these and similarly other odd sounding names on storefronts in second- and third-tier cities in China (I am partial to the “Time Lord” – as an avid Dr Who fan, Tom Baker generation – which sells clocks). Chinese brands masquerade, copy and elaborate on Western brands like Zara and Donna Karan to appeal to Chinese consumers who have broken through the ground floor of the new middle class from China’s socioeconomic basement. China’s interior will present Western brands serious competition in terms of name brand recognition and cachet as Chinese brands tailored to Chinese tastes entrench themselves in consumer orientations. Western brands in clothing and white goods and automobiles will also have difficulty appealing to cost conscious consumers in China’s interior as Chinese do indeed have more disposable income, but not enough to splurge on an LV bag or a Gucci pull-over – especially if the buyers’ friends and family are simply unfamiliar with or unappreciative of styles that reflect little of their tastes. And yet, it’s the x-tier cities in the interior – like Jingzhou , Shouguang , Jinjiang and Shuangliu- that are racking up adolescent double-digit GDP growth rates while the eastern seaboard settles for middle-aged single-digit growth. So, though Western brands do have a future in China’s roughed interior; the battle, though, will be uphill from here.

More reading: China’s hinterland picks up the baton, China turns its gaze inward for growth

Past posts:

Moving On Up

Drink a Bag of Tea

Southwest China: Ready for Departure

December 1st, 2009

I just received a press preview of China Logistics Development Report 2010, published by China Intelligence Online. There’s a lot of statistics about past developments in infrastructure projects over the year, as well as a reference to the New Postal Law, which ostensibly blocks 80% of foreign competition inside China if rigorously enforced. And given that DHL is plowing millions into a logistics and customer service center in Chengdu, they can be none too happy with the policy shift.

In particular, the regional round-ups in the Preview are engaging. I found particularly interesting developments in the Southwest, where the report discusses a pan-Asian rail network that includes a rail-line from Kunming to Singapore. Now that would be an interesting ride!

You can get the report at CIO’s Shop.

For All the Tea in China: A Wonderful Book

September 2nd, 2009

The world was shocked last year after the Olympics when it was revealed that China’s largest producers of milk and milk-products had laced their offerings with a plastic derivative, melamine. Fast-backward to the year 1851, when the British public learned during London’s Great Exhibition that the green tea they had been drinking for nearly two hundred years had been laced with cyanide and gypsum (calcium sulphate dehydrate). The blue color of cyanide and the yellow color of the gypsum combined to make a green dye that satisfied the British tea drinker’s eye for uniformity of color. The Chinese had known for generations such consistency in picking was near-impossible, especially since they had for decades been selling the British the third- and fourth-flushes of their country’s most strategic asset – Tea.

Such is one of the revelations found in the most fun and exciting new book I’ve read this year. For All the Tea in in China: Espionage, empire and the secret formula for the world’s favourite drink, by Sarah Rose, tells the story of how Robert Fortune, a Scottish gardener and botanist, infiltrated the interior of China disguised as a Mandarin “from north of the Great Wall” to steal tea plants, tea seeds and the secrets for making green and black teas. Mind you, he did this during the mid-1800s, when it was highly illegal and certainly inadvisable to be caught, drawn and quartered as a Westerner traveling beyond the permissible foreign concessions on the east coast. As an avid tea drinker and collector of Chinese teas and paraphernalia, and having been taught the dark art of preparing Wulong tea, I just couldn’t put the book down.

Aside from Fortune’s personal adventure, which Rose tells compellingly, she explains the geopolitics and macroeconomics involved in tea’s being at the center of world trade for nearly two hundred years. The book also discusses the genesis, triumph and demise of the East India Company, the first true multinational in the world and arguably the most enduring until Parliament “revoked its charter at the stroke of a pen” in 1857.

With Fortune’s successful transfer of Chinese tea plants and processing techniques to the Himalayas, to what is now commonly known as Assam and Darjeeling, and with the British quite queasy over the thought of drinking more green-colored tea, no matter how authentic, the way was open by 1852 for Britons to entertain drinking black tea. Until Fortune’s successful run of corporate espionage, the West actually thought black tea grew from plants different from those of the green tea they had become accustomed to. Fortune illustrated that the color and taste of black tea came from certain varieties of green-leaf tea that underwent a more stressful process of refinement than is found in making green tea. The surplus of sugar poured into Britain from the British Caribbean colonies made drinking the more-bitter black tea a pleasure for all classes in the newly industrialized society.

Of course, in all this, the poppy and its addictive syrup cannot be ignored, a history Rose writes about frankly and unashamedly. Another interesting historical point was that after the Second Opium War, in 1857, when China figured “if you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em”, China sent its own spies to India to cop the poppy seeds and the secret for processing opium to undercut British prices to customers.

So get out your Brown Betty teapot. Get the book. Read it. Learn and enjoy.

And remember: take the tea to the water – not the water to the tea.

City Slacker

August 26th, 2009

Recent visits to three Chinese provincial capitals in the interior of China have left me in awe of the pace and magnitude of property and infrastructure development. I felt my head spinning at the 24/7 pulse of activity in each of Chengdu, Chongqing and Kunming. Or perhaps it was just the air enveloping the cities, laced as the environment was with dust from the constant construction work and fumes from cars, trucks and buses. Nevertheless, it was easy to see that the Open-Purse Policy the Chinese leadership encouraged of its banks this year was clearly in high gear.

Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan, was far larger than I had anticipated, with broad avenues choked with traffic framed by construction cranes launching high-rises every other block. In general, the people were as relaxed and generous with conversation as I had heard, and the food was absolutely amazing. I did find, though, after several days in the city, it was a treat to find a restaurant where I could find food that was NOT spicey. The Bookworm bookstore and cafe was a welcome retreat from the frenetic pace of construction and traffic, and had a dynamite American-style breakfast on offer. I was surprised at the number of chic international retail outlets at the center of the city, and the expensive import luxury cars dumping wives and girl friends in front of the expensively decorated storefronts. And the bar street across the canal from the Shangrila Hotel was a fun outdoor venue from which to watch the crowds amble by, looking to be looked at. A group of local guys at one of the bars thought my haircut was pretty groovy and invited me to get as falling-down drunk as they were. Though I did join in, experience taught me how to lie convincingly enough I was able to escape with the contents of my stomach still intact.

In Chongqing I saw an old American friend and his wife on their penultimate day before returning to the States after they had worked in China nearly five years. I have a special place in my heart for Chongqing, its people, its roughed geography, its history and the Wild West approach to business the city takes. It had been about two years since I had finished a couple projects out that way, but I was instinctively able to steer to some of the places I had frequented in the past, and knew enough about the places I wanted to visit but hadn’t yet. One place high on my list was the Stillwell Museum, likely the only museum in China dedicated to an American. General Joe “Vinegar” Stillwell was the guiding force behind the Allied defense of China during World War II, and the architect and engineer of the famous Burma Road, which sliced a dangerous logistics route through South China, Burma and into India. It was truly inspiring to be in the house cum museum that had been his home and Allied headquarters in China until Chiang Kai Shek had him thrown out of China to save Face. Another inspirational retreat was the home of Chiang Kai Shek and his wife Soong Mei Ling (Madame Chiang), which was cleverly hidden amongst the forests shrouding the mountains ringing the modern city, a clever defense against the Japanese air raids that at one time made Chongqing the most bombed city in human history. Traffic in Chongqing was even more choked than in Chengdu, because of the narrow and sometimes hazardous roads that intersect like a bowl of soot-covered noodles.

I had been to Kunming, capital of Yunnan province, two years before, and was amazed to find it even more abuzz with construction and commercial activity than my first visit. Lee Perkins, a British expat and founder of China Intel Group, a market research company that has developed expertise in south China and southeast Asia, met with me for a few rounds of beers at a hangout I had developed a fondness for during my first visit, Salvador’s Cafe. Lee, who splits his time between Kunming and Beijing, told me how the massive construction/destruction project I had come across as I had exited the airport involved turning the city’s second ring road into an elevated pass; the city had just finished its third-ring road, and was intent on building its new international airport, after which they would tear down its current, dog-eared domestic airport. One of the things that struck me strongest while strolling through the exhaust-choked streets of the city was how many high-end luxury shops from Italy and France and Switzerland had popped up in just two years, and how many more chic high-rise malls were under construction.

One of the biggest differences I noted upon each of my returns from the deep south to my hometown Suzhou, near Shanghai, was that I did not see any fights or even arguments in the streets of the landlocked cities. Literally, within three days of returning to Suzhou I saw two fights in broad daylight that drew large, highly entertained crowds.

Still, there’s no place like home.

Breaking Out

July 20th, 2009

I write about the Discontent of General Managers in China in my column for the August issue of EuroBiz Magazine. From the beginning of the year through Spring of this year I had talked with a number of high-level managers of foreign-invested companies in China who felt their Headquarters back in the West no longer appreciated the managers’ capabilities, energy and commitment in getting the China operations up and running and smoothly operating. The managers were exploring options beyond the company, having felt they had exhausted avenues for greater opportunity inside their companies. Further, they felt the extraordinary efforts they had put in their companies were not appreciated. Instead, as one senior British manager put it to me, “The guys back in Headquarters believe the effort and the success [in getting China operations up and running] was all theirs.” Not much for expats to dine on after that.

Interestingly, the summer has seen younger people join the trend toward starting their own ventures. Western and Chinese men and women in their mid-twenties through early thirties have been inviting me out for lunch and espresso (mmm…espresso) to ask my thinking about business models they have in mind.

The contexts from which the young entrepreneurs are coming has broadened since the beginning of the year, as well: not just Western guys with knuckle-head HQs, but young Chinese women whose companies are foreign-owned in China have also felt the need to break out. Actually, whether Western or Chinese, male or female, they all seem to me to be realizing something the self-styled Western geniuses in their foreign companies have overlooked: the Chinese domestic market is expanding at the rate of the Big Bang, while international markets are shrinking and will continue to do so for the foreseeable future.

In every instance in which the Bright Young Things – whether Western or Chinese – have asked my thoughts I’ve answered the same: shed any of the boxed-in thinking you absorbed from your Western bosses at your previous job, identify your strengths – hire to fill out your weaknesses – and find the market that could use those unique capabilities that has the least amount of competition in the Yangtze River Delta, with the most amount of potential for eye-popping sales. Use only what’s useful, I tell them, and forget the tiny boxes your bosses had you in during your years of service to shareholders.

China is open for business. And don’t look back!